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Surf-Toe-Pia


Ben Fassbaugh stretching out
Copyright©2006 sandiego.com, Inc.

One little, two little, ten little… Toes on the Nose.

San Diego is known for everything from the “World Famous” zoo to the belligerent, nationally televised, Labor Day beach brawl to the not so famous Beach Patrol TV series swarming/polluting the cable airwaves. Most of all, but not as loudly notarized, San Diego is famous for its plethora of “nose-ridable” left and right breaks.

There are hundreds of potential surf spots in San Diego County. You will find almost all of them to carry some pretty consistent waves capable of being rode on the nose.

Many consider Longboard surfing to be a sector of this sport for the lazy man. I say, pull your ego out of your A** and give it a try. Only do so if you enjoy making the most out of the waves you are dealt.

It is true that this is a slower paced aspect of surfing. However, Longboard surfing is more of an art than an action sport. A wave that a Shortboard surfer would scoff at is a wave that Longboard surfer gleams at.

Unfortunately, for Shortboard surfers, San Diego has fewer big days than smaller waist high days. On the flipside, almost every day is a day wherein you can take out a longer board. This is not saying that you need to take out a 12’ surf board, but you can almost always get away with a 8’6” – 9’ single fin.

If you have ever followed the trend of surfing; you surely understand that it was not started by riding a 5’ potato chip.

Surfing started sometime in the mid to late 1700’s and was brought to light by Captain James Cook when he made his first recorded visit to Hawaii. Captain Cook was (reportedly) killed by Hawaiians when he attempted to kidnap their high chief to get his stolen boat back. My guess is that Captain Cook actually tried to steal the chiefs 10’ Skip Frye Nose Rider.

Some of my best surfing photos are of Shortboarders. Most of my favorite surfing photos are of a Longboarder riding the nose. It looks almost serine when a surfer walks up to the nose of their board and just stops. I have several photos where it looks like the rider is almost sleeping. This is where the surfer has found his Zen.

None of the above is a knock on anyone who rides a shorter board. I am simply saying that, if you haven’t tried it, don’t knock it.

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  • City: San Diego