The new Cosmopolitan Hotel & Restaurant.

^{Courtesy photo}

The echo of a gunshot resounded as we approached the entrance of Old Town’s Cosmopolitan Hotel; a shrill scream and thundering footsteps followed. The grand opening gala of San Diego’s oldest surviving hotel was already in full swing; drinks (served in vintage-style glassware) were flowing, historical interpreters and guests donned customary 1870s attire.

One historical interpreter, whom I later discovered to be impersonating a reptile of some sort, spent the better part of the evening silently scaling the courtyard and balcony railings, sticking his tongue out in true reptile fashion. I sat on the sidelines in the courtyard, confused (and slightly creeped out), trying to understand what was happening. Several gala guests eventually voted (by pointing and shouting “Shoot him!”) that he should be shot by the “sheriff,” who donned a pistol. Meanwhile, guests inside partook in olive oil tastings and played “games of chance” (modern-day gambling); dealers sported 1870s clothing.

Owned and operated by Joseph Melluso, Cosmopolitan Hotel is the only hotel that stands in Old Town San Diego State Historic Park, and the oldest existing local hotel. The building was originally constructed in the late 1820s, as pioneer Don Juan Bandini’s home. (It was later converted into a hotel.) The building is one of California’s only 19th-century commercial structures merging Mexican adobe and American wood-framing methods. The Cosmopolitan underwent a three-year, multimillion-dollar restoration before reopening to the public this week. Throughout the restoration project, which started in 2007, much of the building’s original structure was preserved.

The restored boutique hotel offers 10 second-level rooms (all off a wrap-around balcony offering views of the bay), a restaurant with outdoor seating in a spacious multi-level courtyard and matchless mid-nineteenth century antiques (my favorite is the red velvet couch near the indoor bar). Live entertainment reminiscent of the mid-1800s, an outdoor saloon-style bar, and a “historically-themed" menu with 1870s fare by executive chef Amy DiBiase are also offered. Peppercorn-crusted albacore, pan-seared diver scallops, an artisan cheese board and more can be found on the menu. Beer lovers, brace yourselves: no bottles will be found here; at The Cosmo, beer is served up in jars.

My favorite part of The Cosmo’s opening gala? Proceeds went to Meals On Wheels, a national organization that provides meals to senior citizens in need. Nothing like drinking for a good cause.