Kevin Leap and Steve Persitza

San Diego Dining

Thee Bungalow

By Kevin Leap and Steve Persitza
Posted on Tue, May 13th, 2008
Last updated Tue, May 13th, 2008

A local treasure for over 30 years, Thee Bungalow offers a different vibe from the bustle of downtown. Located off the beaten path in Ocean Beach, this unassuming and cozy French Bistro gives patrons a chance to sample world class French cuisine without the burden of the heavy price tags. The venue is small, very intimate and you can’t help but get caught up in its quiet, relaxed charm. Called “Thee Bungalow” because the building was once indeed a bungalow, a home with the usual living room, dining room, and bedrooms. You get the picture. But don’t be fooled, while the setting is quite the homestead, it is all comfort and grace inside, with eclectic décor and exquisite fine dining.

Thee Bungalow

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The former rooms have become the seating area with the original doorways still present. Large glass partitions offer views into the adjoining areas and deep wood envelopes the entire establishment. From high beamed ceilings with swirling ceiling fans to an outside patio that can be used as a private banquet room, Thee Bungalow goes out of its way to “make you feel at home.”

Pan Seared Maine Diver Scallops

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Thee Bungalow is the perfect place to go with some friends to wine, dine, laugh and catch up on life. We started our short journey with a 2005 Paul Hobbs Chardonnay that had a rich, buttery finish. Our appetizers quickly followed suit with the Pan Seared Maine Diver Scallops (English pea risotto, andouille sausage, apple champagne vinaigrette) and Seared Foie Gras (apple raisin compote, cognac pepper glaze, brioche toast points) arriving for our dining pleasure.

The Foie Gras was amazingly tender and light, with the apple raisins compote and brioche toast creating wonderful combinations of flavors and texture, especially when topped off with the cognac pepper glaze. Plus the Foie Gras is actually from the South of France, not a Hudson Valley knockoff. The scallops were equally delightful. Again, the pairings of the succulent scallops with the robust risotto, zesty sausage and vinaigrette flavorings, made for an exceptional treat.

One of the great things about the venue is that they actually provide you with either soup or salad with your entrée. We can’t remember the last time a fine restaurant actually included them with the meal! The soups of the night were a smooth, warming Asparagus and a zesty full-bodied Lobster Bisque whose subtle taste and velvety texture had to be eaten in slow motion to truly appreciate its rich quality.

At the perfect moment, our attentive server delivered the main courses (with lots of extra plates because we were all sharing tonight). The Braised Kobe Short Ribs (white truffle pommes puree, baby red chard, sauce espagnole) was an amazing savory dish. No knife was needed for this, as the meat, so tender and wonderfully seasoned simply melted into your mouth. The truffle pomme cream was smooth and luscious. Also immensely enjoyed was the Monkfish Medallions (lobster & mushroom ravioli, prosciutto wrapped asparagus, white wine butter sauce) which was a dish of uncompromising flavors. The ravioli added to the delight of the meal. Next up was the Herb Roasted Poussin Chicken (parisienne parsley gnocchi, baby vegetable medley, roasted walnut butter sauce) which held its own in comparison to the other dishes. Coupled with the tender gnocchi and veggies, the dish was refreshingly robust. Lastly came the Pan Roasted Trout (California golden raisin and crab stuffing, French beans, roasted walnut butter sauce). While the trout was a tad strong for our liking, the dish itself was excellently prepared and the compliment of the white asparagus was sublime. These dishes were enhanced by the soft-spoken 2003 Foris Pinot Blanc with its relaxed composure.

We wrapped up the evening with some fabulous desserts including the Crème Brulee (creamy Tahitian vanilla custard with a crunchy brown sugar topping) and the Almond Franacier (Almond style pound cake with espresso crème anglaise and cappuccino gelato). How can you say delightful? The crème brulee was textbook perfection with the ever important crust having just the right consistency, while the inside custard was creamy smooth. The Franacier was an unexpected delight. The fantastic combination of the deep dark chocolate espresso base coupled splendidly well with the pound cake.

Thee Bungalow is like the little train that could. Executive Chef Paul Niles has put together these illustrious dishes with subtle flavors and culinary sophistication. After finishing our last bite of the crème brulee, we had come to realize that we had spent the better part of two hours waiting for a criticism that never came. From the warm welcoming staff and the tranquil environment to the impeccable fare, Thee Bungalow assumes its rightful place among the Cohn greats in an unassuming way. Enjoy!

The good – The best Lobster Bisque in memory. It is not part of the regular menu, so be sure to check first plus host Jeremy Cohn is the most charming host ever.

The bad – even for such a small place, the parking lot is even smaller.

About the author: Kevin Leap and Steven Persitza have been writing reviews of Southern California restaurants since 2006. Kevin was formerly Associate Publisher of the North County Times, Publisher of San Diego Magazine and President of Modern Luxury Media. Steven spent 10 year as Vice President of Marketing for Food For All, a national charity focusing on the grocery industry. Their writing has been acknowledged for its excellence by the San Diego Press Club and also appears in the La Jolla Light weekly newspaper.
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Comments

Posted by woon-yin wong	Sun, May 18th, 2008
I agreed totally with the authers of this article. My wife and I, with two visitors from Europe had a wonderful dinner at the Thee Bungalow about a year ago. The experience was unforgetable. A highly recommended place to visit for visitors and locals. Our particular impression was the outstanding culinary skill of the chief Paul Niles.

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