San Diego Dining

Laurel

By Kevin Leap& Steven Persitza
Posted on Tue, Aug 14th, 2007
Last updated Wed, Aug 15th, 2007

Many years ago, a prominent group of San Diegans opened a fabulous restaurant called Laurel on the corner of Fifth Avenue and Laurel Street, adjacent to Balboa Park. Laurel was forever a favorite of Old Globe Theatre patrons and the city’s most educated palettes. A few years back, incredibly talented and bold restaurateur, Tracy Borkum, bought the venue, gave it a head-to-toe makeover and created a new menu of delectable selections. It being a special evening, we decided to see if Laurel still could stand on its own.

When you arrive at Laurel you are immediately aware that something feels very different as you walk down a short flight of steps into the main dining room. We discovered the restaurant used to be a bank and that the old vault is now a private dining room. This is part of what creates its unusual charm. One of the first thing things you see are very dramatic roses arranged perfectly and floating effortlessly underwater in several massive vases. They are just stunning! There is a dramatic bar to the left that greets you with its art-deco décor. Gold and black trim the establishment with luminous mirrors surrounding you, duplicating the charming atmosphere. We were seated at a large circular booth with a commanding view of the rest of the room and were ready for the evening’s delights to begin.

Our fabulous server quickly delivered some edimame instead of the usual bread, which we thought was progressive and healthy, a real treat and well seasoned with seven herbs and spices. We were off to a great start. We ordered a smooth and buttery 2005 Paul Hobbs Pinot Noir that had a lovely blackberry bouquet. For Beginnings (or appetizers) we savored the Hudson Valley Foie Gras (preserved kumquat blintz, strawberry rhubarb compote and cardamom tuile) and the night’s special of Corn Puree (with lemongrass and bacon). The Foie Gras came in a generous portion and the meat was succulently tender while the corn puree was smoothly textured and a sheer delight.

Enjoying ourselves immensely we looked forward in earnest to what the rest of the evening was to bring. We decided upon Dayboat Scallop (rock shrimp falafel, heirloom tomato sauce vierge, grilled flat chive with a green zaatar dust, which is a blend of toasted sesame seeds, dried thyme, dried marjoram and sumac) with a side dish of Gooey Cauliflower (with gruyere and pancetta). The chilled rock shrimp Falafel was served in a banana curry sambal that created a fulfilling, flavorful entrée. The scallops were equally delicious and the Cauliflower was so good that is was worth the trip alone. In fact we’ve been trying to recreate it at home for weeks.

Adding to the feast was the Mediterranean Pork Duo (Berkshire farm tenderloin, bbq belly, plantain gnocchi with a green curry crème) with an order of Shoestring Frites (with truffle oil and parmesan herb). The pork tenderloin was very smooth and tasty, with melt-in-your-mouth qualities. The pork belly had a nice spicy flavor and was equally succulent. The gnocchi with its curry flavorings, created a wonderful accompaniment to the meal. Adding the magnificent, generous portion of Frites took care of that carb craving in the best of ways and without a hint of guilt.

After such a fabulous meal, dessert was going to be an effort, but one that we suffered through, only for you dear readers. We feasted on White Peach Passion (lemon verbena roasted peach, honey poached peach, almond meringue and cardamom semifreddo) and the Butterscotch Pot De Crème (with almond cookie). Both were simply delicious. The variety of peach samplings kept the palette engaged with the assortment of approachable flavors (this is a seasonal item and not always available but there is always some other delight to choose from). The Butterscotch was so over-the-top good that not a drop was left and dipping the almond cookie into it continued to add to the joy. We also sipped on a wonderfully decadent Apres Cocktail with the White Chocolate Raspberry Truffle (white Godiva, Chambord and vodka) and a smooooth Taylor Fladgate 20 year Port. What an incredible way to end an incredible meal.

All of these culinary celebrations are the creation of Chef Brian O’Connor and Pastry Chef Taylor Conta. Their interpretation of Mediterranean cuisine truly bring a modern sensibility to the dishes and their exceptional flavorings. Entrees range from $22 to $39 and Laurel offers a pre-theatre menu. They also have a special five-course chef’s tasting menu nightly which allows you to sample the chef’s unique accomplishments.

Laurel offers a lovely dining experience with a splendid atmosphere. Whether a celebration or just looking for a wonderfully relaxed dining experience, Laurel is the place to go. Enjoy!

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